Discussion

Due to the ball python's temperature and humidity requirements, as well as the reclusive nature of these beautiful pets, it is very difficult to provide a healthy environment with a glass tank and screen top.  It becomes nearly impossible when you add heat lamps and dry wood shavings.

If a glass aquarium is required, due to the relative low cost, here is an example of a setup that will adequately house an adult ball python:

Enclosure: 30 gallon to 40 gallon (breeder size) standard aquarium with a locking screen lid

• This size enclosure is far too big for a hatchling or juvenile ball python, unless the tank is kept cluttered (ie-many things for the snake to move between and hide beneath, instead of large, empty spaces)

Bedding (substrate) consisting of coconut husk, cypress bedding, or a combination of both

• These substrates retain humidity well and are safe for reptiles and amphibians
• Sphagnum moss can be added to provide even more humidity retention

A quality, proportional output, thermostat (the most important component of a ball python enclosure)

• We use and recommend Herpstat thermostats from Spyder Robotics for our racks, enclosures, and incubators
• Proportional output thermostats continuously provide current to the heating element (at varying amounts as required to maintain temperature) and should have alarms and safety shutoffs to prevent overheating your reptile
• On/off (switching) thermostats can be adequate, but rarely have the safety features a proportional thermostat will provide

A quality heating element connected to your thermostat

• There are many different brands for adhesive-backed heat pads (also known as heat mats and undertank heaters) which will meet this requirement.  The best advice I can give here is to read reviews.
• Also available are heat tape (typically used in rack systems) and radiant heat panels (will dry out the air some, but not to the same extent as heat lamps)
• Heat rocks are very dangerous for any reptile, but carry a higher risk for snakes.  With a snake, the animal's body-not just the feet- is in contact with the rock and can easily become burned and infected.  Heat rocks have been the direct cause of death of many ball pythons.

Two or more hides that are large enough for your ball python to burrow/rest beneath

• Your ball python will spend 75% or more of its time beneath these hides, so they should provide plenty of square footage
• A minimum of two hides is required to ensure your ball python can hide in either the hot or ambient zones of the enclosure to be hidden while thermo-regulating
• These hides should be relatively easy to clean in order to minimize the opportunity for bacteria and parasites to accumulate in the enclosure (cork bark flats and plastic snake hides meet these requirements)

A water bowl large enough for the ball python to tightly coil inside

• Ball pythons are not semi-aquatic species (such as anacondas, reticulated and burmese pythons, etc) and do not need periodic soaks for health.  That being said, a ball python may soak themselves on occasion in an effort to correct a husbandry issue.  If an enclosure's humidity is a bit low, especially during a shed cycle, a ball python may be found soaking in the water bowl to help soften his/her skin just prior to shedding.
• Frequent or persistent soaking may be a sign of parasites, too high of an ambient temperature, or too low of an ambient humidity.  These items should be checked if your ball python is frequently soaking.
• Additionally, being too wet too often can result in bacteria growth between the scales and skin, resulting in a condition known as scale rot.

Many other accessories may be provided, but are generally unnecessary

• Examples include fake plants, branches, other perches, etc
• Ball pythons are a terrestrial species and do not need to climb, however, they will climb some if provided structure
• Plants my help to provide clutter to help a juvenile ball python feel secure

Note: If humidity is insufficient using the above setup, it may be necessary to seal part or all of the screen top to prevent escape of humidity.  Many methods can be used, some of these include a sheet of glass or acrylic (Plexiglas), melted plastic or hot glue, aluminum foil, saran wrap, etc.  Most of these can be an eyesore, but acrylic can be used to enhance humidity without taking away from the visual appeal of the enclosure.

Ball pythons, like all snakes, are carnivorous.  Ball pythons require a protein-rich diet, consisting of rodents.  Although some ball pythons have been provided (and digested) chicks, ducklings, lizards, and reportedly fish, these items are not the normal food source and will result in deficiencies, digestive issues, and other health problems.  A ball python will not and cannot be turned into an herbivore or omnivore.

There are many guides and rules of thumb for proper prey size that are readily available.  In general, we do not feed our ball pythons a larger prey item than the thickest part of the animal's body.  We rarely feed our ball pythons mice, as rats are more protein- and fat-rich for good growth and muscle tone.  We do provide African Soft-Furred Rats (commonly referred to as ASF's) on occasion, especially with hatchlings and juveniles that won't readily take other prey.  We do feed live more often than frozen/thawed or freshly-killed, as that is our preference, but any of these food items may be readily taken by a ball python with a healthy feeding response.

Whatever prey item and condition you choose, be sure you have a ready source for food before even considering purchasing a ball python.